With a combined gas mileage of 24 miles per gallon, the 1992 Accord wasn't the most fuel efficient vehicle Honda ever produced. Even with the well known reliability of Honda made vehicles, they are all still subject to their own problems from time to time. A good majority of Honda owners have experienced a surging engine from time to time for various reasons, but knowing where too look is half the battle.
The first thing to check is all of your vacuum lines as extra air can cause some pretty erratic idle conditions. Inspect for any cracked, disconnected or missing vacuum lines. Any loud hissing noise from the top side of the engine will most certainly be the Ialtest Link Coder Reader location of a disconnected vacuum line. Any extra air entering the intake manifold through faulty gaskets at the manifold mating surfaces or throttle body mating surfaces can also lead so idle surging.
The first thing you need to consider is the last time the coolant system was serviced. If you recently had the system flushed or if you haven't inspected the system in a long while, you may find that there is air in the cooling system. Aside from the possibility of over heating, this can cause the ECM to read false information from the sensor and adjust the idle incorrectly or erratically. Bleed out your cooling system with the 12 mm fitting on top of the thermostat housing. When no air and only coolant comes from the bleeder, the block has been purged of air.
Your electronic air control valve and fast idle valve could also be two of the primary causes of your surging idle scenario. Remove he EACV and clean the holes thoroughly with brake cleaner and a wire brush. Your EACV is bolted to the intake manifold on the front left hand side by two 12 mm bolts and you may need to replace the mounting gasket; tighten the bolts to 16 foot-pounds. Remove the two screws securing the top to your FIV start your engine and place your finger on the valve seating; there should be air flowing outil obd2 while the engine is cold. Allow the engine to warm up and check the valve seating again, there should be no air flow. If there isn't air flow while the engine is cold or there is air flow when warmed up, the FIV is bad and needs to be replaced.
Aside from the things mentioned above, idle surging can also be caused from a sticky exhaust gas recirculation valve, bad PCV valve and a loose idle screw. The idle screw is located on the left side of the intake manifold just below the mass of vacuum lines. If the idle is set too high, specifically above 1200 rpm at idle with the engine warm and throttle plate closed, the ECM will cut off the fuel injectors until the engine speed drops to below 300 to 400 RPM; at which point it will initialize the fuel injectors again. You can remove the EGR valve and clean it with brake cleaner; torque the mounting nuts to 16 foot-pounds on installation.
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