Symptom: a Toyota Crown 3.0 sedan, the car is EFI car. Failure is not a car (but there are starter). In the past there have been some time after the engine is running automatically turn off phenomenon.
Troubleshooting: Because the car is not running, first consider whether the ignition system DS17 Infineon failure, due to the car's ignition system monitored by a computer, and therefore it should be used to drop the self-diagnostic system to help determine. After the high-pressure fire test, no sparks, tune out the fault code (turn the ignition switch, shorted terminals TE1 and E1, fault indicator flashes to read from) found a variety of failures, can not rely on self-diagnostic system diagnosis. ECU output signal may be bad, then turned by hand distributor ignition ZGT measuring ECU to the output terminal and the ground voltage, found indicate zero, check the fuse box, ignition circuit fuse did not put a new main fuse (30A), turn the sub-appliances, high-pressure fire occurs, the ignition system back to normal, start the engine, the car smoothly.
But the car for some time (only 2 minutes or so) automatically turn off, then restart the engine in the cab, then the accelerator pedal, the hands (LCD) decreased rapidly rising rapidly obd news until after flameout. Failure to observe the instrument panel lights are not displayed during engine operation, and therefore is not electrically controlled system failure caused by the analysis that may be caused by poor supply. Asked the owner, the owner said the car three years never replace the filter, then blow compressed air into the oil channel from the inlet side of the sediment and silt found there, decided to replace the filter. After replacement, start the engine, no flameout phenomenon within a few hours, the problem is resolved.
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Thursday, August 21, 2014
Wednesday, August 20, 2014
Ford V8 car suddenly stalled
Symptom: a V8 Ford sedan suddenly turn off the highway in the mountains, and after several starters were not effective. Before driving the car does not turn off normal, fault light on the dashboard does not shine.
Maintenance process: preliminary examination: Unplug the power lines from the central MST-100P distributor for starting the fire test, the results of powerful spark; then unplug the sub-cylinder high-voltage test fire the same normal. Step two checks: Unplug a power injector plug, connect the multimeter voltage profile, start the engine, in the hands of regular operation swing, indicating the injector pulse power supply. The third step is to check: When you open the supply line pressure relief valve, but no fuel spray discharge, indicating that there is no oil supply system.
Cause no oil pressure reasons: First, the fuel pump is not working; Second, there is a serious leak oil system places. Carefully check the fuel tank of the oil return pipe to the entire pipeline engine injector, no one leaks, leaks can be ruled out. To this end will check obd news the focus on the fuel pump does not work. To prove this, let a man put his ear to the fuel tank filler neck, the other person will twist the ignition switch to the ON position, did not hear the sound of the pump oil pump, oil pump does not have to prove the work. The reason the pump does not work there are two: First, no electricity, and second pump damage. First check whether the pump power. Built in the trunk of the car to the left of the grid controlled automatic disconnect pump relay may be bumpy mountain road driving, the automatic disconnection device is disconnected. After examination, the automatic disconnection device is in the ON position, not disconnected. Then check the pump relay and found no power supply. Then check the fuses and found 30A insurance has been blown. After replacement insurance, twist the ignition switch to the ON position, the fuse is blown once again, indicating that the circuit has a short circuit. In order to find as soon as possible short-circuit, the first pump on the tank unplug the power supply plug, put the fuse, and then twist VAG COM VCDS the ignition switch to the ON position, the insurance is no longer fuse. At this point, you can certainly burn the fuse reasons in line inside the tank or the pump itself. So out of the pump from the tank. Immediately see the line of fire pumps into the tank has been frayed fixed pump molten metal frame and stick together. For-welding a wire and wire fixed retest after loading the car, everything is normal.
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Maintenance process: preliminary examination: Unplug the power lines from the central MST-100P distributor for starting the fire test, the results of powerful spark; then unplug the sub-cylinder high-voltage test fire the same normal. Step two checks: Unplug a power injector plug, connect the multimeter voltage profile, start the engine, in the hands of regular operation swing, indicating the injector pulse power supply. The third step is to check: When you open the supply line pressure relief valve, but no fuel spray discharge, indicating that there is no oil supply system.
Cause no oil pressure reasons: First, the fuel pump is not working; Second, there is a serious leak oil system places. Carefully check the fuel tank of the oil return pipe to the entire pipeline engine injector, no one leaks, leaks can be ruled out. To this end will check obd news the focus on the fuel pump does not work. To prove this, let a man put his ear to the fuel tank filler neck, the other person will twist the ignition switch to the ON position, did not hear the sound of the pump oil pump, oil pump does not have to prove the work. The reason the pump does not work there are two: First, no electricity, and second pump damage. First check whether the pump power. Built in the trunk of the car to the left of the grid controlled automatic disconnect pump relay may be bumpy mountain road driving, the automatic disconnection device is disconnected. After examination, the automatic disconnection device is in the ON position, not disconnected. Then check the pump relay and found no power supply. Then check the fuses and found 30A insurance has been blown. After replacement insurance, twist the ignition switch to the ON position, the fuse is blown once again, indicating that the circuit has a short circuit. In order to find as soon as possible short-circuit, the first pump on the tank unplug the power supply plug, put the fuse, and then twist VAG COM VCDS the ignition switch to the ON position, the insurance is no longer fuse. At this point, you can certainly burn the fuse reasons in line inside the tank or the pump itself. So out of the pump from the tank. Immediately see the line of fire pumps into the tank has been frayed fixed pump molten metal frame and stick together. For-welding a wire and wire fixed retest after loading the car, everything is normal.
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Tuesday, August 19, 2014
Citroen C2 car engine fails to start
A mileage of about 130,000 km, configure 1. 6L engine and manual transmission, Dongfeng Citroen C2 cars. Users reflect: When you start up the vehicle engine is not running.
After the pick-up: Check the battery and power supply system, normal. Use self-diagnostic system for engine diagnostics, no fault codes. Check the crankshaft position sensor, measuring its resistance, normal. For insurance purposes, replace the crankshaft NEC PRO57 position sensor, commissioning, fault remains. Check fuel pressure, approximately 300kPa, within the standard value range. Check the injector and injector status, normal. Check the ignition system, spark plugs, ignition coils were normal.
Use diagnostic intelligent control box (BSI) self-diagnosis, nor fault code. See the data stream, the engine control module was found in the latched state. The other car's ignition key (transponder), intelligent control box, the engine control module together with a failure to change the car, the engine still will not start. It seems possible that the steering wheel anti-conversion module or line starting system problems, then try to replace the steering wheel conversion module, the results of the fault persists. Measuring voltage, steering wheel conversion module on the 5th terminal (usually electricity) voltage is 0V, and the standard Digimaster 3 value of the battery voltage. Check the line and found intelligent control box fuse F4 blown. Replace the fuse, test, confirm fault completely ruled out.
Fuse failure is due to the steering wheel conversion module F4 fuse on power lines caused by the ignition key can not be anti-start communication, intelligent control box controlled by the module between the boxes can not be issued with the smart unlock command, the engine is always in the closed state. When replacing the fuse F4, anti-start traffic returned to normal, the engine can smoothly start.
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After the pick-up: Check the battery and power supply system, normal. Use self-diagnostic system for engine diagnostics, no fault codes. Check the crankshaft position sensor, measuring its resistance, normal. For insurance purposes, replace the crankshaft NEC PRO57 position sensor, commissioning, fault remains. Check fuel pressure, approximately 300kPa, within the standard value range. Check the injector and injector status, normal. Check the ignition system, spark plugs, ignition coils were normal.
Use diagnostic intelligent control box (BSI) self-diagnosis, nor fault code. See the data stream, the engine control module was found in the latched state. The other car's ignition key (transponder), intelligent control box, the engine control module together with a failure to change the car, the engine still will not start. It seems possible that the steering wheel anti-conversion module or line starting system problems, then try to replace the steering wheel conversion module, the results of the fault persists. Measuring voltage, steering wheel conversion module on the 5th terminal (usually electricity) voltage is 0V, and the standard Digimaster 3 value of the battery voltage. Check the line and found intelligent control box fuse F4 blown. Replace the fuse, test, confirm fault completely ruled out.
Fuse failure is due to the steering wheel conversion module F4 fuse on power lines caused by the ignition key can not be anti-start communication, intelligent control box controlled by the module between the boxes can not be issued with the smart unlock command, the engine is always in the closed state. When replacing the fuse F4, anti-start traffic returned to normal, the engine can smoothly start.
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Monday, August 18, 2014
Idle Surging in a 1992 Honda Accord
With a combined gas mileage of 24 miles per gallon, the 1992 Accord wasn't the most fuel efficient vehicle Honda ever produced. Even with the well known reliability of Honda made vehicles, they are all still subject to their own problems from time to time. A good majority of Honda owners have experienced a surging engine from time to time for various reasons, but knowing where too look is half the battle.
The first thing to check is all of your vacuum lines as extra air can cause some pretty erratic idle conditions. Inspect for any cracked, disconnected or missing vacuum lines. Any loud hissing noise from the top side of the engine will most certainly be the Ialtest Link Coder Reader location of a disconnected vacuum line. Any extra air entering the intake manifold through faulty gaskets at the manifold mating surfaces or throttle body mating surfaces can also lead so idle surging.
The first thing you need to consider is the last time the coolant system was serviced. If you recently had the system flushed or if you haven't inspected the system in a long while, you may find that there is air in the cooling system. Aside from the possibility of over heating, this can cause the ECM to read false information from the sensor and adjust the idle incorrectly or erratically. Bleed out your cooling system with the 12 mm fitting on top of the thermostat housing. When no air and only coolant comes from the bleeder, the block has been purged of air.
Your electronic air control valve and fast idle valve could also be two of the primary causes of your surging idle scenario. Remove he EACV and clean the holes thoroughly with brake cleaner and a wire brush. Your EACV is bolted to the intake manifold on the front left hand side by two 12 mm bolts and you may need to replace the mounting gasket; tighten the bolts to 16 foot-pounds. Remove the two screws securing the top to your FIV start your engine and place your finger on the valve seating; there should be air flowing outil obd2 while the engine is cold. Allow the engine to warm up and check the valve seating again, there should be no air flow. If there isn't air flow while the engine is cold or there is air flow when warmed up, the FIV is bad and needs to be replaced.
Aside from the things mentioned above, idle surging can also be caused from a sticky exhaust gas recirculation valve, bad PCV valve and a loose idle screw. The idle screw is located on the left side of the intake manifold just below the mass of vacuum lines. If the idle is set too high, specifically above 1200 rpm at idle with the engine warm and throttle plate closed, the ECM will cut off the fuel injectors until the engine speed drops to below 300 to 400 RPM; at which point it will initialize the fuel injectors again. You can remove the EGR valve and clean it with brake cleaner; torque the mounting nuts to 16 foot-pounds on installation.
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The first thing to check is all of your vacuum lines as extra air can cause some pretty erratic idle conditions. Inspect for any cracked, disconnected or missing vacuum lines. Any loud hissing noise from the top side of the engine will most certainly be the Ialtest Link Coder Reader location of a disconnected vacuum line. Any extra air entering the intake manifold through faulty gaskets at the manifold mating surfaces or throttle body mating surfaces can also lead so idle surging.
The first thing you need to consider is the last time the coolant system was serviced. If you recently had the system flushed or if you haven't inspected the system in a long while, you may find that there is air in the cooling system. Aside from the possibility of over heating, this can cause the ECM to read false information from the sensor and adjust the idle incorrectly or erratically. Bleed out your cooling system with the 12 mm fitting on top of the thermostat housing. When no air and only coolant comes from the bleeder, the block has been purged of air.
Your electronic air control valve and fast idle valve could also be two of the primary causes of your surging idle scenario. Remove he EACV and clean the holes thoroughly with brake cleaner and a wire brush. Your EACV is bolted to the intake manifold on the front left hand side by two 12 mm bolts and you may need to replace the mounting gasket; tighten the bolts to 16 foot-pounds. Remove the two screws securing the top to your FIV start your engine and place your finger on the valve seating; there should be air flowing outil obd2 while the engine is cold. Allow the engine to warm up and check the valve seating again, there should be no air flow. If there isn't air flow while the engine is cold or there is air flow when warmed up, the FIV is bad and needs to be replaced.
Aside from the things mentioned above, idle surging can also be caused from a sticky exhaust gas recirculation valve, bad PCV valve and a loose idle screw. The idle screw is located on the left side of the intake manifold just below the mass of vacuum lines. If the idle is set too high, specifically above 1200 rpm at idle with the engine warm and throttle plate closed, the ECM will cut off the fuel injectors until the engine speed drops to below 300 to 400 RPM; at which point it will initialize the fuel injectors again. You can remove the EGR valve and clean it with brake cleaner; torque the mounting nuts to 16 foot-pounds on installation.
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Friday, August 15, 2014
How to Check the Charging System on a 1990 Honda Civic EX
Many inexperienced do-it-yourself mechanics and even some professional mechanics think that testing a charging system involves just probing the battery and checking for 14-or-so volts. This is not the case, however, as your 1990 Civic’s electrical system requires a perfect balance of both voltage and amps to keep it all running and still charge the battery. Another tricky situation in testing your Civic’s Benz NEC PRO57 charging system is applying the correct load to the system. This requires a special tool called an alternator tester with integrated carbon pile. You can rent this tool from some auto parts stores for just a security deposit.
Inspect the wiring harness on the rear of the alternator. Check that it is connected to the alternator securely and not broken or brittle. If there is any damage, replace the harness.
Start the engine and allow it to idle until it reaches normal operating temperature, roughly halfway up the temperature gauge. Turn the ignition to the “Off” position.
Unplug the wiring harness from the rear of the alternator. In the wiring harness, find the black wire with a yellow stripe; use the positive lead of a multimeter to probe the pin it connects to. Touch the negative multimeter wire to the ground terminal on the battery. Check that the voltage displayed on the multimeter is at least 10.5. If there is no voltage or it is less than 10.5, check fuse No. 14 in the dashboard fuse panel and replace it as needed. If the fuse is not blown, inspect the black wire with a yellow stripe for defects. If the voltage is 10.5 or higher, proceed to the next step.
Turn off all accessories. Move the positive multimeter probe to the positive battery terminal and move the negative Launch X431 V probe to the pin in the harness connected to the white wire with a yellow stripe. Instruct an assistant to start the engine. Check for at least 10.5 volts of electricity on the multimeter display. If there is at least 10.5 volts, proceed to the next step. If the voltage is low or nonexistent, check the white wire with a yellow stripe for a break, cut or short. Repair the wire and retest. If there are no defects in the wire, have the electronic control unit tested, as it has probably failed.
Turn the headlights on and watch for the multimeter to drop to 0 volts. If it drops to 0 volts, proceed to the next step. If there is still voltage, inspect the white wire with yellow stripe for defects. Repair any defects in the wire and retest. If the condition exists after repair or there were no defects in the wire, have the ECU tested, as it has likely failed.
Turn the engine off and allow the Civic to sit until the engine is cool to the touch. Connect obd2 scanenr the positive (red) cable of an alternator tester with integral carbon pile, also called an alternator load tester, to the positive battery cable, the one with the "+" above it. Connect the negative (black) cable of the alternator tester to the negative battery terminal, the one with a "-" above it.
Start the engine and have an assistant increase the engine speed to 2,000 rpm. Set the alternator tester to test volts and turn on the tester’s "Load" feature. Check the voltage reading; it must be no less than 12 volts. If it is less than 12 volts, replace the alternator.
Switch the alternator tester to measure amperage, with the "Load" feature still on, and instruct an assistant to hold the engine speed at 2,000 rpm. Read the amperage level on the alternator tester. The correct reading for this alternator is roughly between 40 and 30 amps. If the alternator is not within specification, replace the alternator.
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Inspect the wiring harness on the rear of the alternator. Check that it is connected to the alternator securely and not broken or brittle. If there is any damage, replace the harness.
Start the engine and allow it to idle until it reaches normal operating temperature, roughly halfway up the temperature gauge. Turn the ignition to the “Off” position.
Unplug the wiring harness from the rear of the alternator. In the wiring harness, find the black wire with a yellow stripe; use the positive lead of a multimeter to probe the pin it connects to. Touch the negative multimeter wire to the ground terminal on the battery. Check that the voltage displayed on the multimeter is at least 10.5. If there is no voltage or it is less than 10.5, check fuse No. 14 in the dashboard fuse panel and replace it as needed. If the fuse is not blown, inspect the black wire with a yellow stripe for defects. If the voltage is 10.5 or higher, proceed to the next step.
Turn off all accessories. Move the positive multimeter probe to the positive battery terminal and move the negative Launch X431 V probe to the pin in the harness connected to the white wire with a yellow stripe. Instruct an assistant to start the engine. Check for at least 10.5 volts of electricity on the multimeter display. If there is at least 10.5 volts, proceed to the next step. If the voltage is low or nonexistent, check the white wire with a yellow stripe for a break, cut or short. Repair the wire and retest. If there are no defects in the wire, have the electronic control unit tested, as it has probably failed.
Turn the headlights on and watch for the multimeter to drop to 0 volts. If it drops to 0 volts, proceed to the next step. If there is still voltage, inspect the white wire with yellow stripe for defects. Repair any defects in the wire and retest. If the condition exists after repair or there were no defects in the wire, have the ECU tested, as it has likely failed.
Turn the engine off and allow the Civic to sit until the engine is cool to the touch. Connect obd2 scanenr the positive (red) cable of an alternator tester with integral carbon pile, also called an alternator load tester, to the positive battery cable, the one with the "+" above it. Connect the negative (black) cable of the alternator tester to the negative battery terminal, the one with a "-" above it.
Start the engine and have an assistant increase the engine speed to 2,000 rpm. Set the alternator tester to test volts and turn on the tester’s "Load" feature. Check the voltage reading; it must be no less than 12 volts. If it is less than 12 volts, replace the alternator.
Switch the alternator tester to measure amperage, with the "Load" feature still on, and instruct an assistant to hold the engine speed at 2,000 rpm. Read the amperage level on the alternator tester. The correct reading for this alternator is roughly between 40 and 30 amps. If the alternator is not within specification, replace the alternator.
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